Santorini – Day 11 – Ghost Town

I had my first cooked breakfast of the holiday today – scrambled egg, bacon and mushrooms.  Maybe because we didn’t drink much last night, I felt much better today but sensibly decided to keep out of the sun and finish reading End Of Watch in the shade of the umbrella.

A couple had put towels down on our favoured pair of sun beds on the beach and so we set up on the neighbouring beds. They didn’t turn up until just before noon and considering about four pairs of people from the hotel couldn’t find a spot on the beach in the morning we thought this was the height of selfishness. Tut tut.

I had a banana, Nutella and cookie crumb crepe with chocolate ice cream and whipped cream (squirty cream) and a vanilla milkshake for lunch at Vienna cremeria. Siggy just had yoghurt and bananas. I don’t think I’ve had a proper piece of fruit for eleven days.

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Back on the beach until 4pm and then we went for a walk all the way through Perivolos and on to Exomitis. We walked past crops of melons, courgettes and tomatoes and many fields full of dry dirt and empty shallow circular pools which I guess were either livestock watering holes or some traditional way of collecting water to use on crops.

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We found Exomitis to be largely a bit of a ghost town with many abandoned half-developed buildings and a crumbled seafront victim of a disastrous landslide, earthquake or maybe just gradual erosion from underneath a poorly constructed concrete structure.

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When we found the derelict beach front we spotted the port of Vlyhada where our taxi driver dropped people off on the way back from Oia. We walked across truly black sand dotted with small pumice stones to the ragtag port. We got a couple of drinks from a store and urinated in the dark of the public toilets which had running water but no electric.

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About two hours later, having walked back along the back roads and through most of Perivolos, we stopped at Sea La Vie a small and very basic beach bar in Perivolos for a couple of large draught beers for 3 Euro each that turned out to be a bit warmer than we would have liked, but my feet were killing me and we needed a break. Mine had the remains of someone else’s lunch floating in the bottom of it, and Siggy got a short measure, so we won’t be revisiting.

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We visited Filippos Taverna in Perivolos for dinner at around 8:45, so the sun was down but it was still darned hot. Dinner consisted of cheesy garlic bread (not on the menu but Siggy explained what she wanted), pastitsio and meatballs. The portion sizes and flavours that were sadly lacking yesterday were there tonight. The pastitsio was particularly well flavoured with nutmeg.

Then all the back into Perissa for Amstel Radlers on a bench outside Yazz. The breeze was hot tonight and it didn’t start cooling down until 11pm. I said yesterday that reggae was very popular here but I think the song we have heard most often is Carlos Santana’s ‘Maria Maria’.

We had a few quick power cuts tonight. I guess all the AC units on the island are pushing the electricity grid to the limit.

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